FAMAGUSTA
(Mağusa)
The city of Famagusta is one of the finest examples of
medieaval architecture in the Eastern Mediterranean and, in its present state of
preservation, is equal to that of the old cities of Carcassone or Ragusa. One
full day spent in Famagusta will reveal the history of cyprus in a nutshell.
Much of Cyprus is an outdoor museum, but only here is so much historical
interest concentrated, that is a show- place for all tourists.
Much of the history of the town is obscure as there are
no written records and our only source of materialis from travellers' accounts
of merchants passing through. Some historians declare that it was founded by
King Ptolemy Philadelphus of Egypt in 285 B.C. By the year 1300 A.D. the town
was one of the principal markets of the Eastern Mediterranean, the rendezvous of
rich merchants and the headquarters of many Christian religious orders as
revealed by numerous churches of various denominations still to be seen in the
town today. This was the time of the Crusades and when the rich Lusignan family
ruled Cyprus, and hence the period 1200 to 1498 in Cyprus history is called the
Lusignan dynasty. Famagusta was protected by ramparts which encircle the town
and the citadel castle guarding the harbour, the best in Cyprus. This citadel or
Othello's tower is the first main focus of attention for visitors.
The period 1300 to 1400 is known as the golden age of
Famagusta and was regarded as such by visiting merchants, who brought back tales
of fabulous wealth in the various places. After 1400, rival factions of Genoese
and Venetian merchants settled there. The Genoese caused much strife until
finally the Venetians took command of all Cyprus and transferred the capital
from Nicosia to Famagusta in 1489. The Venetians were in command for 82 years
and it was from Famagusta that the whole island was governed.
The invention of gun-powder and the use of cannon made
it necessary for the Venetians to remodel the entire defences for the use of
artillery, the new type of warfare. The medieaval square towers were replaced
with round ones and all along the walls and citadels numerous cannon portholes
were inserted.
The turkish armada arrived outside the town in 1570 and
put it under siege for a year. In 1571 not only Famagusta, but all Cyprus was
under Turkish rule and remained so until 1878. The end of the British colonial
rule in 1960 led to the intensification of inter- communal strife between
Greek-Cypriots and Turkish-Cypriots which concluded in 1974 with the
Turkish-Cypriot rule in North Cyprus.
The new town of New-Famagusta (also known as Maras or
Varosha) lies just to the south of the walled old-city of Famagusta.
PLACES TO SEE IN FAMAGUSTA:
The
Venetian Walls of the Old City:
The old city of Famagusta is encircled by the historical walls, which are
massive and on average are 60 feet high and 30 feet thick and date back to
medieaeval times. The walls stand intact to this day, well preserved. Two of the
original gates of the Famagusta Castle, (the walls) still stand: Porta Del Mare
(The Sea Gate), and Ravalin / Akkule Bastion (The Land Gate). Two more gates
have been opened during the British period, which are the Djamboulat Gate, and
the New Gate.
Othello's Tower / Bastion
Djamboulat's Bastion
Venetian Palace:
Opposite the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (St. Nicholas Cathedral), and across the
square, only the grand facade of the Venetian Palace is left, it having been
destroyed in 1571 by the Ottomans. There are three arches in Roman style
supported by four granite columns and over the central arch are the arms of
Giovanni Renier, Captain of Cyprus in 1552. There was another more ancient
palace on this site in which the Lusignan kings and queens of Cyprus were
crowned. Beyond and inside the courtyard are numerous cannon balls and pieces of
a large granite column.
Namik Kemal Prison and Museum:
After its destruction in 1571, the Venetian Palace was used during the Ottoman
period, as a prison. Among the prisoners was Namik Kemal, the Shakespeare of the
Turkish literature, who was held there between 1873 and 1876, having been exiled
to Cyprus after criticising the Sultan. Next to the Namik Kemal prison is a
museum about him and his works. There is a bronze bust of the poet facing the
square, by the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque.
Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (St. Nicholas Cathedral)
St. George of the Greeks Church:
This church was probably built in opposition to the nearby Latin (Roman
Catholic) cathedral of St. Nicholas. An exterior view of the apse at the eastern
end is shown above. Here we have the typical semicircular apse while the central
part of the church had a large dome which in this case has been blown off in
1571. Notice how the bombardment came from one side, and this is the side facing
the distant bastion of Djamboulat, where the Turkish artillery was deployed in
1570. As you go round the various churches, it will be observed that most of the
damage is on the the side facing Djamboulat. One must remember, also, that the
city of Famagusta suffered from two severe earthquakes in mid 18th century. With
the numerous cannon balls lying about both in among the ruins and in private
gardens, one gets the impression that the siege only took place a few years ago.
This is why Famagusta as a historical centre unique in
all Cyprus. Inside the church are some fragments of wall painting, then best
being in the eastern apse. In the nave are the foundations of some Roman columns
where the method of binding stones with iron ties is visible. The use of iron
ties for constructing masonry without cement was often used by the Romans in
harbours and jetties.
St. George of the Latins Church:
The sketch of the church shows this to be a picturesque ruin, but typical of the
French style of architecture. The tall lancet shaped windows are rather highly
placed and this has led some historians to suggest that it was a fortified
church built in the days when the medieval walls had not yet been put up. As
usual, the side facing Djamboulat bastion shows the most damage, but in this
case one has to appreciate the great distance which Turkish cannon could reach,
for the bastion is quite a way off.
Sinan Pasha Mosque (Church of St. Peter and Paul)
This was originally a church built in 1358 with funds donated by a successful
merchant of the day. After 1571, it was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans.
In the courtyard, is the tomb of Chelebi Mehmet Efendi, a famous Turkish
diplomat who was Ambassador to France, of the Ottoman Empire in 1730, and who
died in Famagusta in 1732.
Agios Ioannis Church & Icon Museum:
The Agios Ioannis Greek Orthodox church in Famagusta has been recently renovated
and opened as an icon museum. The museum, contains more than 120 icons,
including those of Christ and Saint John, painted in the 18th century. Agios
Ioannis is the third icon museum in Famagusta, alongside those at St Barnabas,
and Yeni Iskele. The other icon museums in North Cyprus are: Archangelos Michael
Church (nr. harbor), and Bellapais Church Museum in Kyrenia, and the Church of
St. Mamas in Güzelyurt.
St. Barnabas Monastery & Museum
Ancient city of Salamis
Bronze Age settlement of Engomi-Alasia:
At Engomi, archeologists have uncovered the remains of a great Bronze Age city,
possibly that of ancient Alasia, whose kings shipped copper to the Pharaohs of
Egypt. The site contains some of the richest Bronze Age tombs ever excavated.
Items discovered there include gold and ivory objects, imitation diamonds, glass
vases, and rare examples of Mycenian pottery. The evidence of an Achaean
settlement at Engomi supports the legend that nearby Salamis was founded by
Greek colonists led by Teucer soon after the Trojan War.
Kantara Castle
The castle of Kantara standing at a height of 2,068 feet, is quite magnificently
placed astride the near-east end of the jagged Five- finger mountains. It is
sufficiently well preserved to show the quality of its architecture and the
remarkable bastions that flank the entrance. The castle was built by the
Byzantines in the 11th century.